Monday, May 25, 2009

Inspiring Giborim

My last week in Israel has officially begun. Amid papers and tests and trying to get some last minute shwarma and ice cream runs in, I am beginning to wrap of the life I have created here in the Holy land. Today with my Holocaust class, I visited Yad Vashem. I had yet to visit the new History museum and found it much more moving, educational, interesting and well thought out than the one that was used previously. The museum is in the shape of a Triangle with cement walls inside. You begin at one end of the Triangular, long shaped building with a movie of the life of the Jews of Europe before the war began. We made our way down ( symbolically of course) into the rest of the museum where we weaved our way, with a guide, through the rise of Nazism in Europe, onto the creation of the Ghettos, passed the concentration camps and on through the partisans and the righteous among the nations. The most moving part of the museum was the last room of archives. This room was oval in shape- a high circular ceiling revealing pictures of names of those who we know were murdered in the holocaust ( about 3.2 mil. ) and opposite the ceiling a pit dug with water on the bottom. When we looked down into the pit we saw the reflection of those estimated 3 million names and pictures, representing all of those who perished in the Holocaust.

We continued our program at Yad Vashem ( mind you our professor works for Yad Vashem as the Editor in Chief of Yad Vashem Studies and other publications by Yad Vashem), with a talk with the Director of the department for the Righteous Among the Nations. She shared with us the measures taken to decide to who will be honored with the title of the Righteous among the nations. Following her presentation was the most moving of them all- and definitely tops the list of most moving experiences in Israel so far.

After a 5 min break, a vivacious 85 year old Israeli women made her way into the room we had been sitting in for what seemed like forever. She sat down at the table, and began to tell us about her life. Alice, or Elisheva in Israel, was born in Holland and spent her teenage years under the occupation of the Nazi’s. Her story was remarkable. Alice spent 3 and a half years in hiding, after convincing her father not to commit suicide and kill them as the Nazi were approaching Holland. She and her family bounced from 14 different people in Holland until one family finally took them in for the rest of the war. Alice spoke unbelievably eloquently and fondly about the family that saved and hide her family during the war. Three stories stick out to me in particular.

Alice and her family were among 9 Jews hidden by this devout Christian Family during the War. At a certain point, she explained, they became agitated with each other – as in most Holocaust hiding stories. The father of the household had a solution. He was extremely fond of the Old Testament, reveling in its symbols and hidden meanings. He made a rule that every day at 12 o clock the Jews would gather in the room they were hidden in, and he would read to them a passage from the Old Testament. After, he instructed them to learn, reread, discover and challenge all that they had read in this chapter. Later that night they were to present what they had learned to him. Alice explained that they would often stay up into the early hours of the morning studying Torah. The study of Torah kept these Hidden Jews busy and interested, excited and alive for the years they spent hidden from the outside. It was remarkable, outside of the fact that Torah literally saved their insanity, that it was all orchestrated by a non-Jew.

The second story Alice told about her hiding took place on Christmas. She told us that the man of the house asked for some time alone with his wife to pray on Christmas ( The hidden Jews usually were out with them during the night). Without a flinch, the Jews agreed and stayed in the backroom they were in during the day. They heard piano playing, and plates hitting the table. The lady of the house came to get them, revealing that they had a surprise for them. When they walked in they saw a table set with plates an forks and in the middle a Huge cake, surrounded by a wreath, dawning a lit menorah on top. It happened to be Hannukah that year the same day as Christmas. The man of the house played Hannukah music on the Piano, and Alice remarked Alice, most dramatically might I add, explained that they hadn’t seen bread for years let alone cake, and were stunned, shocked and mostly thankful for the celebration their saviors had prepared. This story to me highlights the true love and admiration the family had for the Jews they were hiding. To share their Christmas celebration with the Festival of Lights, for these Jews, shined, as Alice began to cry, a light in even the darkest moments in their life.

The last story is short but most moving. When the war ended and the Jews who had hidden with this family were gathering their things etc, the father of the house asked that they wait and file out of the house one in front of the other. As they left, the man of the house, who had scrambled to find the music to Hatikvah, played Hatikvah as each of them left from hiding. Alice remembered he had said to her, that this should be the song they march out to freedom with.

This remarkable story, told by such a lively, happy, gifted woman, gave me chills to last a life time. Her bravery and more over the commitment of the Non Jewish family who took her and her family in was overwhelmingly moving. After an afternoon of intensely depressing and saddening pictures, stories and truths, it was wonderful and inspiring to be told the story of true giborim (heros).

My week is long and pretty hectic. Shavuot is coming in this Thursday and then Shabbat. I have two finals on Sunday and then I’m off to the airport at 4 o’clock in the morning to catch an 805 flight to London-Newark and then finally Orlando.
I will try to write before I leave, but my words just might need to be saved for the plane ride home.

It is truly starting to hit me that my time here is coming to end, and im trying my hardest to think positively.

Until next time,
Sara

Monday, May 18, 2009

This is the Beginning of the End

As my time in Israel has begun winding down, my schedule has certainly not. The past two weeks have been pretty busy here in the Holy Land. I spent last Shabbat in Tsfat, celebrated Lag B’omer, experienced the Pope in Jerusalem, and went to Hebron with an organization called “Breaking the Silence,” just to name a few.

Tsfat is an amazingly spiritual city. Hidden in the mountains of the Northern Galilee, we bussed for about 3 and a half hour, stopping in the religious city of Meron, to finally reach Tsfat by early afternoon last Friday. A few friends of mine and I contacted an organization called Anywhere in Israel about two weeks prior to our trip. Anywhere in Israel is an organization run by Yeshiva University created to set up people with families all over Israel for Shabbat. We contacted Anywhere in Israel and finally, after much craziness about numbers and such, ended up renting an apartment in the Old City of Tsfat and being set up for dinner and lunch during Shabbat. The apartment was unreal! Situated in the heart of the old city, in a 300 year old building above a 500 year old well, we rented this 6 person apartment for Shabbat- a true paradise compared to other Shabbat experiences we’d had. We wandered around the old city in the afternoon- peering into little artist shops and old synagogues. Everything in Tsfat is tinted blue- literally. Tsfat is one of the 4 holy cities ( Jerusalem, Tiberias, Tsfat and Hebron – I’ve successfully been to all of them!!) Kabbalah, Jewish mysticism, was founded in Tsfat, and its mystical color blue is on every door, wall, and even in the cracks of the street. The famous Yosef Caro wrote the Shulchan Oruch in Tsfat too. As you can tell, Tsfat is a pretty special place.

When Shabbat began, with the sounding of a siren of course, we ventured to a shul we had heard great things about. On our way we passed dozens of other minyanim beginning their respective Kabbalat Shabbat services. We stood cramped in a jammed packed women’s section- filled with amazing ruach and kavanah!! After shul we were split up to go to three different homes for Shabbat Dinner. Two girls went to a Tsfat artist and his family- David Freidman. Two girls went to a more spiritual family who had established “the quiet center” in Tsfat and my friend Helene and I were hosted by the Chazan at the shul we went too! We ate with this incredible family- American born, 8 kids, nice guests, delicious food! After dinner we all made our way back to our humble abode and discussed our respective, interesting experiences. Saturday morning we were split up three and three. One group was sent to the same artist from Friday night and the others were sent to an incredible family called the Ben Baruchs. The Ben Baruchs’ have about 10 children, 6 of which are there biological children , 4 of which are adopted, and 5 of which have Down syndrome. They welcomed us with such open arms- telling stories about their children, and their lives. I learned that Down syndrome and other disabilities are not so accepted in the Orthodox world, leading to abandonment and often institutionalization. This family, with little money, finds these children and does whatever they can for them including taking them as their own.
After my Shabbat in Tsfat I’ve concluded that Tsfat is a sort of escape for many people. Quiet, quaint, small and filled with super interesting people, tons of spirit and mysticism, Tsfat was a great place to spend Shabbat.

Lag B’omer, the middle of the 7 week counting of the Omer between Pesach and Shavuat, was special in Jerusalem. Friends and I took a bus into town through the religious neighborhood of Mea Shaarim to see dozens of bonfires burning in the streets- something traditionally done on Lag B’omer. When our bus was stopped because of pretty regular suspicious bag being blown up, we got off the bus and walked the rest of the way to the Kotel. We passed tons of bonfires in the streets – not so environmentally friendly- and finally made it to the Kotel where yet again a Bonfire was burning. After that we made it to Gan Sacher (where we celebrated Yom Haaztmaut, and other festive holidays) and yet AGAIN hung around the fire- this time roasting marshmallows!

When we were told of the Pope’s visit to Jerusalem it seemed exciting. Five days later, the Pope became the source of TONS of traffic, school closings, bus re-routing and more. It was amazing to see what Jerusalem had done in preparation for the visit of the Catholic leader. Vatican flags were put up EVERYWHERE, new flowers were planted, fresh paint was added to the streets and more. Right across from my apartment building just so happen to be the landing pad for the Pope! We were on lockdown when he arrived- no one could leave and no one could come. It was incredible to see the respect and reverence Israel’s government gave to the Pope upon his visit. He went to Yad Vashem, the Kotel and other revered sites here and gave a handful of speeches. The Popes visit was special considering the small significance he holds within the Jewish state aside from the Christian presence. The fact that Israel welcomed him with such open arms gives a peak into their respect for guests and more specifically someone who is adamant on bringing peace to this region and the world.

Yesterday, I successfully visited all four of the holy cities in Israel. With 7 other students and a veteran Israeli soldier I visited the city of Hebron- the settlement/ occupied territory. We were an assorted group – some super liberal others way to the right, one was Christian who is joining the American army and one who had studied at a University in Ramallah this past semester. We were a taken around the old city of Hebron with an organization called “Breaking the Silence.” (“Breaking the Silence is an organization of veteran Israeli soldiers that collects testimonies of soldiers who served in the Occupied Territories during the Second Intifada.”)This organization was created to basically provide transparencies of the Military. We were taken through Hebron and shown was has occurred as a result of the occupation of the Hebron. We learned that there are specific streets that only Palestinians can walk on, that only Israelis can walk on- places where Palestinians used to live and trade but have been closed, empty homes and streets, a few settlers and a few Palestinians. We learned about the military presence in the area, the long and intense process it is for Palestinians to leave and to come. We learned that the PA supports Palestinians in Hebron, despite awful conditions in order to keep a Palestinian presence in the area. Our guide enlightened us on some of his own experiences during the second intifada, through checkpoints, night raids and the like. This experience was incredibly…confusing. It became very hard to separate what I knew as fact and what I knew of my opinion on the political situation in Israel from what I was seeing in front of me. Regardless of political motive, right or wrong, effective or ineffective, the state of the Palestinians in this area is far from that of their Jewish neighbors. I left feeling very unsettled as the program does not offer a solution and no political agenda (though that is debatable). More strengthened however my understanding of the complication of the situation in Israel. We can’t compare our situation to any other though we are held to a higher standard, and every move we make has its consequences. As a result of this trip my idea of a solution to the political – rooted deeply in a belief of a religious and national right- has become even more blurred.

On a more positive note- I was able to visit the graves of the Avot and Imahot. The tombs are divided in half (half mosque half synagogue) where only Christians can go to both sides. It was incredible to be at the grave sites of our forefathers.

I have two more weeks left in Israel- student day, Shabbat, Shavuot, tests, papers and packing and undoubtedly spur of the moment adventures all lie ahead of me.
I am torn between being excited to go home- see family and friends, and spend my summer at camp, and leaving this place I have grown so attached to.

More to come later!

With Love,
Sara

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Am Yisrael Chai

Days of remembrance and celebration in Israel do not go unnoticed. In that past two weeks, Israel has undoubtedly been on a “yom” kick, celebrating Yom HaShoah, Yom Hazikaron and Yom Haatzmaut over the course of 8 days. These holidays shed an interesting and touching light on Israeli culture- its connection and recognition of its past tied ever so closely with its hope of the future.


As the day of remembrance of the 6 million Jews who were murdered through the horrors of the Holocaust, Yom Hashoah, strikes a very personal and relatable cord in Israeli society. Stores closed throughout Yerushalayim on erev Yom Hashoah and a siren goes off at 10 o clock the next morning signaling a moment of silence for those 6 million Jews who perished. The siren is something so very specific to Eretz Yisrael. A siren rings to warn against bombing raids and a siren rings to signal the remembrance of those who perished. Each siren however sounds different- a bomb warning is high pitched and goes through different tones while the siren to remember is low pitched, slow and somber.


The connection the Holocaust has to Israel is quite obviously a close one. I recall making assumptions at a young age that Israel’s creation was highly dependent on the Holocaust. While there is no doubt that the final push in establishing a Jewish state for the Jewish people was connected to the horrors of the Holocaust, I have learned over the years it is of course not the only reason for its establishment. The Zionist movement came about in the late 19th century as the only answer to the ensuing anti-Semitism of Europe. The connection today on Yom Hashoah of course is that so many of the Holocausts survivors found their way to Israel- many fought it is War of Independence, ran its government and continued to develop the nation that we see today. Aside from these survivors of course are their decedents who populate this country today. Yom HaShoah was created in the 1950s- shortly after its independence, on the day of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising- purposely in memory of those warriors in Warsaw as the state was being created and fought for by the new warriors, of Israel.


A mere week later- a professor of mine pointed out the connection between this week and the week of Shiva- Yom Hazikaron occurs. This day is set to remember all those soldiers who have died from pre-state to now. I found myself on erev Yom Hazikaron at the Kotel for the national ceremony of those fallen soldiers. Crowded behind an area blocked off for soldiers, we stood and listened in Hebrew to President Shimon Peres, a rabbi and military leaders speak on the day of remembrance. Following this ceremony two of my friends and I made our way over the Russian compound downtown where we were three of thousands of Israel’s sitting in the courtyard of the old Jail- listening to musicians perform songs about war and soldiers and short videos of soliders in the Army. We became a part of this day of remembrance as we sat surrounded by thousands of Israelis who most likely served in the Army in last 5 years and even more likely lost friends of theirs. Tears uncontrollably fell from my eyes as the hatikvah- the hope- was sung by those who fight truly to protect the state of Israel and the Jewish people. Around town the next day were hundreds of ceremonies remembering those who have fallen- along with a national ceremony on top of Har Herzl. Throughout the day the Radio broadcasts the stories of fallen soldiers. My friend Helene and I made our way into town just in time to hear the siren of remembrance for those fallen soldiers. Everyone gets out of their cars, traffic is stopped and we stand silently in honor and remembrance of Israel’s fallen. It is unlike any memorial day in the US, to be in Israel for Yom Hazikaron. This day is personal here, meant for honoring and remembering soldiers who died fighting for the state of Israel, unlike the shopping barbequing Memorial Day in the states. Undoubtedly everyone has a connection to a grave at the bottom of Har Herzl among the rows of stone plaques honoring those who have lost their lives.


Merely hours later the celebration of the founding of the State of Israel began. As the sun set my friends and I attempted to make our way to Talpiyot for Mincha Maariv and Hallel on the Tayelet overlooking the old city. We got lost on the way, found ourselves heading down a not- so safe mountain to a place we as American- Jewish 20 somethings were probably not welcomed. Luckily a car drove by hailing an Israeli flag, rolled down its window and a friendly Israeli face asked us where we were going. We quickly piled into his old Volvo after discovering he too was heading to the tekas and was lost on the way. He told us some stories about Shlomo Carlebach, as any good hippie religious Jew here does, and we safely made our way to the tekas. We arrived to davening Israelis followed by dancing in celebration of the young country which would turn 61 the following day. We then made our way down town to Israeli dancing at city hall- along with some intense Israeli dancers, to some concerts in the center of town where everyone was clad in blue in white and finally made our way to Nachloat to a block party that lasted until early in the morning. The next day was all about the Barbequing. What seemed like every citizen of Jerusalem crowded into Gan Sacher and held huge bbq’s for friends and family. My friends and I grilled chicken cabobs and burgers and spent the day celebrating the creation of the state of Israel with its people.



These three holidays- holidays celebrating the civil religion of Israel rather than the religious- revealed a side of Israeli society to me that continues to amaze me. We hear in the states about our freedoms and standing united, but nothing can compare to the celebration of independence and freedom that Israel inhibits on these three days. These holidays emphasized for me the uniqueness of the state of Israel. As I continue my journey here its days like these that pull me into what it really means to be an a Jew in your own land- and its days like these that deepen my sense of pride in my people and my land.

In exactly one month I will be traveling back to the states. It has begun to hit me that my dreams of spending a semester abroad are slowly coming to a close. I have so many things I want and need to get done before I can end my time here- and I plan to succeed. Though that reality is starting to sink in along with sadness as well- my confidence is returning here continues to grow.

Love to you all,
Sara

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Pesach to Present





I can not believe how long it has been since I last blogged. So much has been going on in my life and here in Israel- that I seemed to have spaced writing it all down despite my commitments to keep you all posted. I am going to TRY to sum it all up here- but its going to be difficult no doubt. Sometimes days feel like weeks here yet the month has felt like merely an hour. Im going to jump around a bit as my memory permits me-

Pesach was incredible in Israel. Even before the holiday began, the city began to prepare. Stores began to close, those scrumptious Passover candies became available in the candy shops in the shuk, less chumatz was being sold and bought, and lots and lots of cleaning. The transition this month from last ( Purim to Pesach really) was sooo interesting. At many of the shabbas tables I was at, we spoke about the preparation for pesach-not only the physical cleansing of the house but the emotional, religious, and physical cleansing of ourselves. We had break from school for two whole WEEKS! The first weekend I spent in Jerusalem. A close friend of mine was staying at her Aunts amazing house in an area called Nayot- basically a neighborhood at the end of the huge park – Gan Sacher. Until Pesach ( that Wednesday) my friends who were still in Jerusalem ( a lot of people had left the country to travel) hung out in Jlem- where I helped cleaned their apartments, and the like. Tuesday we searched for chumtz, and Wednesday burned it in the streets. I have never seen so many fires in dumpsters!

Wednesday morning was an extremely unbelievable morning. This year on the 14th of Nissan- a most spectacular event occurred. We blessed the sun- called Birkat HaChama! Sounds crazy I know, but in the Jewish tradition, every 28 years the sun rises on the same day it was created- returning to the cycle of creation. This day however was different because it fell on the eve of Pesach- something that occurs even more rarely- definitely less than once in a life time. What did I do for this special occasion? Watched the sunrise at the Kotel of course. I was one of about 50,000 people running at 540 in the morning to be crammed into the kotel davening under the chief rabbi of Israel and watching the sun rise over the holiest place in the world. The sun was unbelievably strong that day as I stood with my fellow Jews to watch this momentous occasion. Incredible.



Later that very long, exhausting day, was sedar. A few friends and I went to a family we have become close with in Nachlaot for Sedar. There were about 15 adults and 5 children under the age of 4, including a newborn- gathered around a vegetarian table, reading the Haggadah, sharing dvrei torah and other words of wisdom. We went until about 230 in the morning talking and sharing and questioning.

The next morning I began my crazy spring adventure. I was up about 800 getting ready to leave for Boombamella- a music festival held on Nitzanim Beach. About 8 of us camped out on the beach and spent three days hanging out, listening to music and enjoying the festival. All of the food they offered was kosher for Pesach- something we definitely took advantage of. Pesach seemed to fly by infact because food here is not an issue! Restaurants are open and change over to pesadic food, and everyone is in it together.

After Boombamella I came back to Jerusalem for a day (Sunday) and then left Monday morning for my trip up north. First I went to Tiberias- where we dipped in hot springs, saw the grave of the Rambam and Yochanan Ben Zachai, biked around the Kinneret and of course ate at the most amazing meat resturaunt in the country- Decks. ( I HAD FILET MINOIGN). After one night in Tiberias we headed to Haifa- saw the Bahai Gardens, stayed in an amazing hostel, walked around the city, went to a sculpture garden, a beer house where I had peach beer, ended pesach, and an art museum. We left early in the morning for Zichron Yaackov (my favorite place in Israel) for a Wine tour at Tishbi Winery. After the Winery we headed to Ceasaria to explore the ancient city and finally, after a train ride to Tel Aviv and a bus trip to Jerusalem, were finally home in Yerushalayim. We truly had an amazingly jammed packed week of traveling, and I have never felt so happy to back.


My shabbatot, since my last post, have been definitely diverse. I’ve spent a few in Jerusalem, one at Boombamella, and at Kibbutz HaNaton in the north. I have found Shabbat to be super stressful come Thursday night, but somehow by 2 pm on Friday afternoon, at peak packedness in the shuk- everything seems to be worked out. This Shabbat as well as the one before, I found myself in Gan Sacher in the afternoon. It is an amazing place to be on shabbas afternoon- people- secular, religious, jewish, muslim, old, young, are enjoying being outside and being together.

Getting back into the swing of things after my break was challenging to say the least.
My internship is going really well. I love the kids I work with and theyre getting used to seeing me around, remember my name and ask me for help due to my amazing English skills ;). Last time I was in, we were looking up lyrics to English songs they knew so they could understand what they were singing ( they love American Hip Hop- even though they don’t understand). Their all time favorite however is “Titanic”, also known as My heart will go on- something they didn’t know. It was surprisingly difficult to explain “ that is how I know you go on” as its translates really weirdly in Hebrew.

This past Tuesday was Yom Hashoah. Erev yom hashoah stores across the city shut down in honor of the day of Remembrance. At 10 am the next morning, a siren went off around the country for people to stop and remember the 6 million who perished in the holocaust. I was outside on my way to class that morning and watched the entire city stop. People got out of the cars, stopped literally in their tracks and thought. For the minute the siren went off, all that ran through my head was amazement that in light of such a tragedy there is now place of refuge, safety and comfort for the Jews of the world.

Wednesday came and I went on the COOLEST field trip of my life- the dead sea. With my environmental and natural source policy class, we ventured, through the West Bank, to the most northern spot of the Dead Sea we could go. We looked at the sad picture of the receding dead sea, the sink holes, the marks where the sea used to be and shrinking tourism. It was amazing to be able to ACTUALLY go out and see what we had been discussing in class- something I SO looked forward to about coming to Israel.

I could honestly go on for pages about the last month, but that will have to come in person when I see each of you.

My time in Israel is starting to come closer to ending and I am truly in shock. May will be here before I know it and just as quickly as this semester came, it seems its ending. I can’t wait to take these next few weeks as slowly as can- stop and smell the flowers- and enjoy my time in eretz Yisrael.

With Love,
Sara

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Place of Pride

Pride is an attribute drilled into the heart and soul of the Jewish people. As my days go on here in Israel, my sense of pride in both the Jewish people as well as the state of Israel continues to blossom. Three events from this past week in particular further sunk this feeling into my heart- The 1000 day of Gilad Shalit going missing, Shabbat in the old city and seeing the movie Defiance with my Holocaust class.
Last Wednesday three friends and I, looking for an adventure to embark on in the holy city of Jerusalem, found ourselves in front of the Presidents house on Gaza Street. Pitched outside of his residence, were upwards of 5 tents, hundreds of pictures, letters, petitions and people all in support of returning Gilad Shalit from the hands of terrorists to Eretz Yisrael. The mood was quiet but hopeful; people were smiling and seemingly optimistic about the return of Israel’s beloved soldier. Across the street sat another, not so popular tent dawning a poster in bold red and black letters in Hebrew, “Yes, Free Gilad. But don’t free Terrorists.” Surrounding this tent were hundreds of candles and posters of all of those Israelis murdered in terrorist attacks since the year 2000. This unbelievable display of Israeli reality silenced my friends and I, leaving us with a pit deep in our stomachs that every Israeli undoubtedly feels when faced with such an agonizing emotion.
On our way to visit the tents, we were stopped by an Israeli teenager who expressed to us the scene that lay ahead. He said the family was optimistic, in high spirits surprisingly. We questioned him about the tent across the street and he simply answered, we agree with them too. The sense of community, caring and understanding that thickened the air last Wednesday night, undoubtedly gave me the chills. Israelis are confronted with a lot of adversity in their lifetimes- everyone knows someone who did something important, who risked their life for the State of Israel and the Jewish people. This event sucked me into the sense of pride rooted deeply in the neshama of the Israeli.
For the weekend I spent Shabbat in the old city. Surrounded by interesting, different, loving people, most of whom I had never met, I felt unbelievably close to God. As I walked through the Cardo, under those ancient arches to the Kotel, I heard loud and fervent noise. We turned the corner after the infamous gold menorah to a sea of people singing, dancing and davening Kabbalat Shabbat. It was jammed packed with people from all walks of life joining together to bring in Shabbat. We had dinner and lunch the next day surround by people who are living their dream by being in Israel- for however long that may be. I was yet again, overcome with pride to be a part of this great nation of people.
Something super specific to Israel is its relationship to the Holocaust. One of the classes I am taking here is Jewish and Non Jewish Relations during the Holocaust, taught by an accomplished historian and scholar at Yad Vashem. I have yet to take a Holocaust class in college, and I figured this was a better place than any. The history of the Holocaust played a huge role in the creation of the State of Israel in 1948 as well a reminder as to the importance of the future of the state as a rock and safehaven for the global Jewish community.
My class took a field trip on Monday to the Malka Mall on the edge of Jerusalem to privately view the movie Defiance- based on the book Defiance that we are reading for class. The film was about the Belski Partisans that hid and fought in the forests of Belarusia during WWII. The partisans in the end saved about 1200 people—rescuing them from ghettos among other places. The film as you can imagine was kind of gory and a bit sad at times. It captured however, the strength and pride in which this band of Jews stood up for themselves and fought against one of the cruelest peoples to walk the face of the earth. As the movie ended, an overwhelming sense of pride filled my heart. It had hit me when we walked out of the theater into the mall that the plight of the Belski partisans did not only go unnoticed or been forgotten but continues today in the very land that I am blessed to walk on every day.
The existence of the state of Israel after the atrocities that befell the Jews of Eastern Europe is AMAZING! Everything we have here was built by Jews, for Jews as a safe haven against those who had and could potentially decree our demise. From the ashes of the Holocaust, a thriving oasis in a harsh, cruel, hostile environment, Israel continues to flourish and survive despite its enemies wills. As I sit here, hoping to inspire all of you to love Israel as deeply as I do, stunned by its sheer existence and success, and listening to the Idan Reichel Project in the background, I am left purely with a sense of pride for what my people have done and continue to do for this land and its inhabitants.


On a completely different note- I started my internship FINALLY last week. I intern at the Dati Meled Alternative School at 30 Hillel Street in downtown Jerusalem. This school is for “religious” drop-outs. Considered high risk in Israel- “ Meled’s students represent a growing phenomenon: the inability of many adolescents from observant families to operate and succeed in traditional educational frameworks. Some are victims of terrorism and have been emotionally traumatized by their experiences; others come from single parent families or immigrant families that have not been able to adjust to life in Israel. They may have left or been kicked out of their homes and driven to street drugs and petty crimes; girls are in an even more precarious situation.”
I work with these students twice a week helping them with English! They all ask me two questions initially- Am I religious and when am I making aliyah? So far I LOVE it. I am going to begin working with one girl, Miriam, in particular. She said she is one of 7 children, speaks not so highly of her American born father, and has a beautiful smile.
More to come on this for sure!

I miss all of you and REALLY want to hear about your lives in the States.

With Love,
Sara

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Purim Good Purim Good Purim Purim Good Purim Purim

Living in Jerusalem is like nothing else. Some say it’s indescribable, magical, mystical, and crazy even. As January ran in to February and before I could breathe March appeared, I continue to scratch the surface of understanding those who describe Jerusalem. Under this umbrella of understanding lies the experience of chaggim in this wonderful country. A few posts back I wrote about the beauty of the holiday of Tu Beshavat in Jerusalem. Something permeates the air here on chaggim- and Shabbat for that matter- and I definitely caught a whiff the past three days when Purim engulfed the city of Jerusalem.

In Jerusalem, Purim is celebrated the day after the rest of the world celebrates it- called Shushan Purim. For the same reason holidays are celebrated for two days in the states ( it took a while to hear the news), Jerusalem- a walled city- heard the “news” about the Jews of Shushan a day later. In Jerusalem, therefore, we celebrate “shushan purim.”

For days I wrestled with costume ideas for this joyous celebration of yet another victory for the Jewish people in a foreign land- landing on the idea to be mother earth. ( Pictures will be on facebook eventually) Mother earth was a hard one for Israelis to grasp- going green isn’t as big here yet. I wore all green - a long flowing skirt and chacos to tie it together- with flowers in my hair and paint on my face.

As for actual purim- I spent the night at the Karlebach moshav outside of Modin. What an experience. The karlebach moshav is unlike anything. The gist of this place is about 7 couples in the early 1980’s were huge fans of Rabbi Shlomo Karlebach- decided it would be great to move outside of the craziness of a city to a more rural communities- where a lot was communal, their kids could run free and they could enjoy living their religious, hippie, nature-loving, Karlebach-inspired lives. The moshav now holds about 45 families, seemingly stuck in time. My friend Carly and I arrived just as megillah reading was beginning- after about an hour long journey, including a relatively normal blowing up of a suspicious item in the street which stopped traffic for about 45 minutes- to find men, women and children completely decked out in purim-garb! Following the reading of the megillah was a costume contest, a concert and of course a rave in the forest. Everyone was enjoying in the mitzvah of drinking wine on purim. We stayed on the floor of one of the founding families of the moshav- the Silvers- and the next morning made mishloach manot, a seudah meal and the like with them. There were other guests at the silvers as well- from Toronto, Argentina and Sweden!- and we had intense conversations about everything from American politics, Judaism, family, history and more. I found myself, about twenty minutes into our conversation, taking a step back realizing the true beauty in what was occurring in front of my eyes- only in Israel. I concluded after my less thatn 24 hours at the Moshav that is was essentially Jewish overnight camp for families. As Purim was ending on the moshav and the rest of Israel, and in full swing in the states, we began out trek back to Jerusalem to start it all over again!

We tremped back to Jerusalem ( hitch hiked- don’t worry we weren’t alone and the man was wearing a kippah and listening to Chassidic music also, ITS ISRAEL!) just in time to hear the megillah for time number three in Nachloat- the place to be for Purim. Later the night we met up with tons of friends and began celebrating! At about 11 pm the streets of Nachloat turned into the most intense party I have ever been to in my life even trumping the greatest party week of all time, little 5 ( sorry hoosiers!). People dressed in the most unbelievably creative costume, dancing, jumping rather; to Purim songs in the streets of the hippie religious neighborhood that is Nachlaot. I lasted until about 3 in the morning until my dancing feet couldn’t hold me any longer. The next morning I heard Megillah yet again, and helped make a seudah at the house I was staying at- sushi!!!! As for the rest of the day, the streets of Nachlaot became alive again, we delivered mishloach manot, met up with more friends, and enjoyed.

Purim surpassed every expectation that I had of it. It is unlike any little 5 party, Halloween, city wide event or the like. People running through the streets screaming chag sameach and good purim, doesn’t exist anywhere but here. Kodem Kol,
That’s one more point for Jerusalem!

Until next time,
Sara

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Shinuim

Wow
It has been way to long of a time since I last poured my heart into a blog. The past three weeks or so have definitely been a roller coaster per usual of Israel. There have been a lot of changes including wonderful new things, the beginning of many new friendships and realizations about old ones.

Shinui (Change) Rishon: I finally moved from the Resnick dorms to the Kfar Studentim. Great Decision. I now have my own room- an almost fully equipped kitchen, internet, great roommates and a much closer walk to the new friends I have made. It truly is amazing how significant the change has been. I have found myself more outgoing, meeting more people and the like.
It was just what I needed.

Shinui hasheni: Classes started…finally! I am taking Hebrew, which for once in my life is easy. Environmental and Natural Resource policy of Israel and the Middle East, which is super interesting, is my second class. Today we talked about religion and Zionism and the environment. Its continues to amaze me how much the three major monotheistic religions have in common- including the idea that man has a responsibility to take care of the earth. We discussed numerous issues- spanning from the existence of God to the damning beavers do in Western Canada. I can already tell it will be an amazing class, melding environmental issues and Israel- what could be better, aside the fact that Israel has some MAJOR issues. Were going on a trip to the Dead Sea (ridiculous right!) to witness first hand some of the water issues facing Israel today. The professor happens to be the admissions dead at the Arava Institute- a world famous environmental studies school in the desert.

Another class I’m taking is on the rescuers and partisans of the Holocaust. The professor for this class works for Yad Vashem and is amazing. We’re going to Yad Vashem and to a private viewing of the movie Defiance! I have believe it or not, not yet taken a class on the Holocaust in college, so here it is! My last class yes there are only 4!) is the JESNA class. This class is all about Jewish education in North America- the issues, the promises, what we can do etc. Coupled with this class is an internship. My internship is at the Amit Alternative school. I’ll be tutoring “high risk” teenagers- something I feel like I have some background in thanks to my crazy summer with my favorite campers! This class also puts me on a list and invites me into a network of Jewish educators- keeping me informed about internships, jobs etc. until I tell them to stop. While I don’t know where my life will take me after I graduate- and being in Israel makes it extra tempting to come back here- having this network and option is both comforting and smart.

Shinui Shlishi- Relationships! I have found myself over the past few weeks extra social. Making new, wonderful friends, meeting amazing people who I have a lot in common with and the like. I spent the last shabbas hanging out with three wonderful ladies- lounging around all shabbas in PJ’s. It was wonderful to say the least. I began to realize that I needed to make the most of my time here and in light of some harder events, changes in a specific relationship- I found myself surrounded by people who were supportive and caring, loving and understanding. Even in my most personal relationship here, I have begun to make changes and seen great success. Being in the here and now is something i am trying very hard to work on. Sometimes it takes something shocking and painful to bring that to the forefront. Needless to say, that very personal relationship is being worked on- by purely starting from the beginning. The basis of any great relationship is a friendship and it is something lacking from this relationship in particular. Rewinding a bit has made us realize that what has been lying underneath the whole time—something very special and real.

Shinui Arba- I got my nose pierced!!! Its adorable and really classy looking, in my opinion. I feel more Israel, more earthy, and like it’s a really good fit for me. Im keeping in clean, don’t worry, and liking it more and more every day.

One other thing I want to mention, is a recent film I saw entitled, “ The Cemetery Club.” I’ve been trying to be super cultural while im here- movies, concerts and the like. Anyway, this movie was a part of a series on women film makers (just around Rosh Chodesh) in Israel. This film in particular was on two elderly women in Jerusalem who were apart of a group of about 20 other elderly Israelis who met in the cemetery every week. The film focused on their lives before coming to Israel as well as the early years when the state was being established. As the film progressed, more members of the club began to die. The members of this club were not only survivors of holocaust, but founders of the State of Israel. They have lived through both the most challenging and most thrilling parts of Jewish History. The women focused on in the movie represented a large group of people in Israel- who I now have much more respect for. What the old women who shoved me out of the way in the shuk this afternoon, has seen with her old sunken eyes, is more than I can imagine. A true appreciation and understanding flooded my heart at the end of this film, for the elderly in this state. Amazing.

I could go on forever about my time in Israel. Every day is another adventure; I see something that gives me the chills and especially things that make me reconsider how I have felt about something before, or how I experience it now.

Purim is coming up this week- school is out and im hoping to be mother nature!
I promise to take pictures and even more importantly- write about it.

I hope you are all doing wonderfully.
Id love to hear from you!!

B’ahava
Sara