This is the Beginning of the End

As my time in Israel has begun winding down, my schedule has certainly not. The past two weeks have been pretty busy here in the Holy Land. I spent last Shabbat in Tsfat, celebrated Lag B’omer, experienced the Pope in Jerusalem, and went to Hebron with an organization called “Breaking the Silence,” just to name a few.

Tsfat is an amazingly spiritual city. Hidden in the mountains of the Northern Galilee, we bussed for about 3 and a half hour, stopping in the religious city of Meron, to finally reach Tsfat by early afternoon last Friday. A few friends of mine and I contacted an organization called Anywhere in Israel about two weeks prior to our trip. Anywhere in Israel is an organization run by Yeshiva University created to set up people with families all over Israel for Shabbat. We contacted Anywhere in Israel and finally, after much craziness about numbers and such, ended up renting an apartment in the Old City of Tsfat and being set up for dinner and lunch during Shabbat. The apartment was unreal! Situated in the heart of the old city, in a 300 year old building above a 500 year old well, we rented this 6 person apartment for Shabbat- a true paradise compared to other Shabbat experiences we’d had. We wandered around the old city in the afternoon- peering into little artist shops and old synagogues. Everything in Tsfat is tinted blue- literally. Tsfat is one of the 4 holy cities ( Jerusalem, Tiberias, Tsfat and Hebron – I’ve successfully been to all of them!!) Kabbalah, Jewish mysticism, was founded in Tsfat, and its mystical color blue is on every door, wall, and even in the cracks of the street. The famous Yosef Caro wrote the Shulchan Oruch in Tsfat too. As you can tell, Tsfat is a pretty special place.

When Shabbat began, with the sounding of a siren of course, we ventured to a shul we had heard great things about. On our way we passed dozens of other minyanim beginning their respective Kabbalat Shabbat services. We stood cramped in a jammed packed women’s section- filled with amazing ruach and kavanah!! After shul we were split up to go to three different homes for Shabbat Dinner. Two girls went to a Tsfat artist and his family- David Freidman. Two girls went to a more spiritual family who had established “the quiet center” in Tsfat and my friend Helene and I were hosted by the Chazan at the shul we went too! We ate with this incredible family- American born, 8 kids, nice guests, delicious food! After dinner we all made our way back to our humble abode and discussed our respective, interesting experiences. Saturday morning we were split up three and three. One group was sent to the same artist from Friday night and the others were sent to an incredible family called the Ben Baruchs. The Ben Baruchs’ have about 10 children, 6 of which are there biological children , 4 of which are adopted, and 5 of which have Down syndrome. They welcomed us with such open arms- telling stories about their children, and their lives. I learned that Down syndrome and other disabilities are not so accepted in the Orthodox world, leading to abandonment and often institutionalization. This family, with little money, finds these children and does whatever they can for them including taking them as their own.
After my Shabbat in Tsfat I’ve concluded that Tsfat is a sort of escape for many people. Quiet, quaint, small and filled with super interesting people, tons of spirit and mysticism, Tsfat was a great place to spend Shabbat.

Lag B’omer, the middle of the 7 week counting of the Omer between Pesach and Shavuat, was special in Jerusalem. Friends and I took a bus into town through the religious neighborhood of Mea Shaarim to see dozens of bonfires burning in the streets- something traditionally done on Lag B’omer. When our bus was stopped because of pretty regular suspicious bag being blown up, we got off the bus and walked the rest of the way to the Kotel. We passed tons of bonfires in the streets – not so environmentally friendly- and finally made it to the Kotel where yet again a Bonfire was burning. After that we made it to Gan Sacher (where we celebrated Yom Haaztmaut, and other festive holidays) and yet AGAIN hung around the fire- this time roasting marshmallows!

When we were told of the Pope’s visit to Jerusalem it seemed exciting. Five days later, the Pope became the source of TONS of traffic, school closings, bus re-routing and more. It was amazing to see what Jerusalem had done in preparation for the visit of the Catholic leader. Vatican flags were put up EVERYWHERE, new flowers were planted, fresh paint was added to the streets and more. Right across from my apartment building just so happen to be the landing pad for the Pope! We were on lockdown when he arrived- no one could leave and no one could come. It was incredible to see the respect and reverence Israel’s government gave to the Pope upon his visit. He went to Yad Vashem, the Kotel and other revered sites here and gave a handful of speeches. The Popes visit was special considering the small significance he holds within the Jewish state aside from the Christian presence. The fact that Israel welcomed him with such open arms gives a peak into their respect for guests and more specifically someone who is adamant on bringing peace to this region and the world.

Yesterday, I successfully visited all four of the holy cities in Israel. With 7 other students and a veteran Israeli soldier I visited the city of Hebron- the settlement/ occupied territory. We were an assorted group – some super liberal others way to the right, one was Christian who is joining the American army and one who had studied at a University in Ramallah this past semester. We were a taken around the old city of Hebron with an organization called “Breaking the Silence.” (“Breaking the Silence is an organization of veteran Israeli soldiers that collects testimonies of soldiers who served in the Occupied Territories during the Second Intifada.”)This organization was created to basically provide transparencies of the Military. We were taken through Hebron and shown was has occurred as a result of the occupation of the Hebron. We learned that there are specific streets that only Palestinians can walk on, that only Israelis can walk on- places where Palestinians used to live and trade but have been closed, empty homes and streets, a few settlers and a few Palestinians. We learned about the military presence in the area, the long and intense process it is for Palestinians to leave and to come. We learned that the PA supports Palestinians in Hebron, despite awful conditions in order to keep a Palestinian presence in the area. Our guide enlightened us on some of his own experiences during the second intifada, through checkpoints, night raids and the like. This experience was incredibly…confusing. It became very hard to separate what I knew as fact and what I knew of my opinion on the political situation in Israel from what I was seeing in front of me. Regardless of political motive, right or wrong, effective or ineffective, the state of the Palestinians in this area is far from that of their Jewish neighbors. I left feeling very unsettled as the program does not offer a solution and no political agenda (though that is debatable). More strengthened however my understanding of the complication of the situation in Israel. We can’t compare our situation to any other though we are held to a higher standard, and every move we make has its consequences. As a result of this trip my idea of a solution to the political – rooted deeply in a belief of a religious and national right- has become even more blurred.

On a more positive note- I was able to visit the graves of the Avot and Imahot. The tombs are divided in half (half mosque half synagogue) where only Christians can go to both sides. It was incredible to be at the grave sites of our forefathers.

I have two more weeks left in Israel- student day, Shabbat, Shavuot, tests, papers and packing and undoubtedly spur of the moment adventures all lie ahead of me.
I am torn between being excited to go home- see family and friends, and spend my summer at camp, and leaving this place I have grown so attached to.

More to come later!

With Love,
Sara