My last week in Israel has officially begun. Amid papers and tests and trying to get some last minute shwarma and ice cream runs in, I am beginning to wrap of the life I have created here in the Holy land. Today with my Holocaust class, I visited Yad Vashem. I had yet to visit the new History museum and found it much more moving, educational, interesting and well thought out than the one that was used previously. The museum is in the shape of a Triangle with cement walls inside. You begin at one end of the Triangular, long shaped building with a movie of the life of the Jews of Europe before the war began. We made our way down ( symbolically of course) into the rest of the museum where we weaved our way, with a guide, through the rise of Nazism in Europe, onto the creation of the Ghettos, passed the concentration camps and on through the partisans and the righteous among the nations. The most moving part of the museum was the last room of archives. This room was oval in shape- a high circular ceiling revealing pictures of names of those who we know were murdered in the holocaust ( about 3.2 mil. ) and opposite the ceiling a pit dug with water on the bottom. When we looked down into the pit we saw the reflection of those estimated 3 million names and pictures, representing all of those who perished in the Holocaust.
We continued our program at Yad Vashem ( mind you our professor works for Yad Vashem as the Editor in Chief of Yad Vashem Studies and other publications by Yad Vashem), with a talk with the Director of the department for the Righteous Among the Nations. She shared with us the measures taken to decide to who will be honored with the title of the Righteous among the nations. Following her presentation was the most moving of them all- and definitely tops the list of most moving experiences in Israel so far.
After a 5 min break, a vivacious 85 year old Israeli women made her way into the room we had been sitting in for what seemed like forever. She sat down at the table, and began to tell us about her life. Alice, or Elisheva in Israel, was born in Holland and spent her teenage years under the occupation of the Nazi’s. Her story was remarkable. Alice spent 3 and a half years in hiding, after convincing her father not to commit suicide and kill them as the Nazi were approaching Holland. She and her family bounced from 14 different people in Holland until one family finally took them in for the rest of the war. Alice spoke unbelievably eloquently and fondly about the family that saved and hide her family during the war. Three stories stick out to me in particular.
Alice and her family were among 9 Jews hidden by this devout Christian Family during the War. At a certain point, she explained, they became agitated with each other – as in most Holocaust hiding stories. The father of the household had a solution. He was extremely fond of the Old Testament, reveling in its symbols and hidden meanings. He made a rule that every day at 12 o clock the Jews would gather in the room they were hidden in, and he would read to them a passage from the Old Testament. After, he instructed them to learn, reread, discover and challenge all that they had read in this chapter. Later that night they were to present what they had learned to him. Alice explained that they would often stay up into the early hours of the morning studying Torah. The study of Torah kept these Hidden Jews busy and interested, excited and alive for the years they spent hidden from the outside. It was remarkable, outside of the fact that Torah literally saved their insanity, that it was all orchestrated by a non-Jew.
The second story Alice told about her hiding took place on Christmas. She told us that the man of the house asked for some time alone with his wife to pray on Christmas ( The hidden Jews usually were out with them during the night). Without a flinch, the Jews agreed and stayed in the backroom they were in during the day. They heard piano playing, and plates hitting the table. The lady of the house came to get them, revealing that they had a surprise for them. When they walked in they saw a table set with plates an forks and in the middle a Huge cake, surrounded by a wreath, dawning a lit menorah on top. It happened to be Hannukah that year the same day as Christmas. The man of the house played Hannukah music on the Piano, and Alice remarked Alice, most dramatically might I add, explained that they hadn’t seen bread for years let alone cake, and were stunned, shocked and mostly thankful for the celebration their saviors had prepared. This story to me highlights the true love and admiration the family had for the Jews they were hiding. To share their Christmas celebration with the Festival of Lights, for these Jews, shined, as Alice began to cry, a light in even the darkest moments in their life.
The last story is short but most moving. When the war ended and the Jews who had hidden with this family were gathering their things etc, the father of the house asked that they wait and file out of the house one in front of the other. As they left, the man of the house, who had scrambled to find the music to Hatikvah, played Hatikvah as each of them left from hiding. Alice remembered he had said to her, that this should be the song they march out to freedom with.
This remarkable story, told by such a lively, happy, gifted woman, gave me chills to last a life time. Her bravery and more over the commitment of the Non Jewish family who took her and her family in was overwhelmingly moving. After an afternoon of intensely depressing and saddening pictures, stories and truths, it was wonderful and inspiring to be told the story of true giborim (heros).
My week is long and pretty hectic. Shavuot is coming in this Thursday and then Shabbat. I have two finals on Sunday and then I’m off to the airport at 4 o’clock in the morning to catch an 805 flight to London-Newark and then finally Orlando.
I will try to write before I leave, but my words just might need to be saved for the plane ride home.
It is truly starting to hit me that my time here is coming to end, and im trying my hardest to think positively.
Until next time,
Sara
Monday, May 25, 2009
Monday, May 18, 2009
This is the Beginning of the End
As my time in Israel has begun winding down, my schedule has certainly not. The past two weeks have been pretty busy here in the Holy Land. I spent last Shabbat in Tsfat, celebrated Lag B’omer, experienced the Pope in Jerusalem, and went to Hebron with an organization called “Breaking the Silence,” just to name a few.
Tsfat is an amazingly spiritual city. Hidden in the mountains of the Northern Galilee, we bussed for about 3 and a half hour, stopping in the religious city of Meron, to finally reach Tsfat by early afternoon last Friday. A few friends of mine and I contacted an organization called Anywhere in Israel about two weeks prior to our trip. Anywhere in Israel is an organization run by Yeshiva University created to set up people with families all over Israel for Shabbat. We contacted Anywhere in Israel and finally, after much craziness about numbers and such, ended up renting an apartment in the Old City of Tsfat and being set up for dinner and lunch during Shabbat. The apartment was unreal! Situated in the heart of the old city, in a 300 year old building above a 500 year old well, we rented this 6 person apartment for Shabbat- a true paradise compared to other Shabbat experiences we’d had. We wandered around the old city in the afternoon- peering into little artist shops and old synagogues. Everything in Tsfat is tinted blue- literally. Tsfat is one of the 4 holy cities ( Jerusalem, Tiberias, Tsfat and Hebron – I’ve successfully been to all of them!!) Kabbalah, Jewish mysticism, was founded in Tsfat, and its mystical color blue is on every door, wall, and even in the cracks of the street. The famous Yosef Caro wrote the Shulchan Oruch in Tsfat too. As you can tell, Tsfat is a pretty special place.
When Shabbat began, with the sounding of a siren of course, we ventured to a shul we had heard great things about. On our way we passed dozens of other minyanim beginning their respective Kabbalat Shabbat services. We stood cramped in a jammed packed women’s section- filled with amazing ruach and kavanah!! After shul we were split up to go to three different homes for Shabbat Dinner. Two girls went to a Tsfat artist and his family- David Freidman. Two girls went to a more spiritual family who had established “the quiet center” in Tsfat and my friend Helene and I were hosted by the Chazan at the shul we went too! We ate with this incredible family- American born, 8 kids, nice guests, delicious food! After dinner we all made our way back to our humble abode and discussed our respective, interesting experiences. Saturday morning we were split up three and three. One group was sent to the same artist from Friday night and the others were sent to an incredible family called the Ben Baruchs. The Ben Baruchs’ have about 10 children, 6 of which are there biological children , 4 of which are adopted, and 5 of which have Down syndrome. They welcomed us with such open arms- telling stories about their children, and their lives. I learned that Down syndrome and other disabilities are not so accepted in the Orthodox world, leading to abandonment and often institutionalization. This family, with little money, finds these children and does whatever they can for them including taking them as their own.
After my Shabbat in Tsfat I’ve concluded that Tsfat is a sort of escape for many people. Quiet, quaint, small and filled with super interesting people, tons of spirit and mysticism, Tsfat was a great place to spend Shabbat.
Lag B’omer, the middle of the 7 week counting of the Omer between Pesach and Shavuat, was special in Jerusalem. Friends and I took a bus into town through the religious neighborhood of Mea Shaarim to see dozens of bonfires burning in the streets- something traditionally done on Lag B’omer. When our bus was stopped because of pretty regular suspicious bag being blown up, we got off the bus and walked the rest of the way to the Kotel. We passed tons of bonfires in the streets – not so environmentally friendly- and finally made it to the Kotel where yet again a Bonfire was burning. After that we made it to Gan Sacher (where we celebrated Yom Haaztmaut, and other festive holidays) and yet AGAIN hung around the fire- this time roasting marshmallows!
When we were told of the Pope’s visit to Jerusalem it seemed exciting. Five days later, the Pope became the source of TONS of traffic, school closings, bus re-routing and more. It was amazing to see what Jerusalem had done in preparation for the visit of the Catholic leader. Vatican flags were put up EVERYWHERE, new flowers were planted, fresh paint was added to the streets and more. Right across from my apartment building just so happen to be the landing pad for the Pope! We were on lockdown when he arrived- no one could leave and no one could come. It was incredible to see the respect and reverence Israel’s government gave to the Pope upon his visit. He went to Yad Vashem, the Kotel and other revered sites here and gave a handful of speeches. The Popes visit was special considering the small significance he holds within the Jewish state aside from the Christian presence. The fact that Israel welcomed him with such open arms gives a peak into their respect for guests and more specifically someone who is adamant on bringing peace to this region and the world.
Yesterday, I successfully visited all four of the holy cities in Israel. With 7 other students and a veteran Israeli soldier I visited the city of Hebron- the settlement/ occupied territory. We were an assorted group – some super liberal others way to the right, one was Christian who is joining the American army and one who had studied at a University in Ramallah this past semester. We were a taken around the old city of Hebron with an organization called “Breaking the Silence.” (“Breaking the Silence is an organization of veteran Israeli soldiers that collects testimonies of soldiers who served in the Occupied Territories during the Second Intifada.”)This organization was created to basically provide transparencies of the Military. We were taken through Hebron and shown was has occurred as a result of the occupation of the Hebron. We learned that there are specific streets that only Palestinians can walk on, that only Israelis can walk on- places where Palestinians used to live and trade but have been closed, empty homes and streets, a few settlers and a few Palestinians. We learned about the military presence in the area, the long and intense process it is for Palestinians to leave and to come. We learned that the PA supports Palestinians in Hebron, despite awful conditions in order to keep a Palestinian presence in the area. Our guide enlightened us on some of his own experiences during the second intifada, through checkpoints, night raids and the like. This experience was incredibly…confusing. It became very hard to separate what I knew as fact and what I knew of my opinion on the political situation in Israel from what I was seeing in front of me. Regardless of political motive, right or wrong, effective or ineffective, the state of the Palestinians in this area is far from that of their Jewish neighbors. I left feeling very unsettled as the program does not offer a solution and no political agenda (though that is debatable). More strengthened however my understanding of the complication of the situation in Israel. We can’t compare our situation to any other though we are held to a higher standard, and every move we make has its consequences. As a result of this trip my idea of a solution to the political – rooted deeply in a belief of a religious and national right- has become even more blurred.
On a more positive note- I was able to visit the graves of the Avot and Imahot. The tombs are divided in half (half mosque half synagogue) where only Christians can go to both sides. It was incredible to be at the grave sites of our forefathers.
I have two more weeks left in Israel- student day, Shabbat, Shavuot, tests, papers and packing and undoubtedly spur of the moment adventures all lie ahead of me.
I am torn between being excited to go home- see family and friends, and spend my summer at camp, and leaving this place I have grown so attached to.
More to come later!
With Love,
Sara
Tsfat is an amazingly spiritual city. Hidden in the mountains of the Northern Galilee, we bussed for about 3 and a half hour, stopping in the religious city of Meron, to finally reach Tsfat by early afternoon last Friday. A few friends of mine and I contacted an organization called Anywhere in Israel about two weeks prior to our trip. Anywhere in Israel is an organization run by Yeshiva University created to set up people with families all over Israel for Shabbat. We contacted Anywhere in Israel and finally, after much craziness about numbers and such, ended up renting an apartment in the Old City of Tsfat and being set up for dinner and lunch during Shabbat. The apartment was unreal! Situated in the heart of the old city, in a 300 year old building above a 500 year old well, we rented this 6 person apartment for Shabbat- a true paradise compared to other Shabbat experiences we’d had. We wandered around the old city in the afternoon- peering into little artist shops and old synagogues. Everything in Tsfat is tinted blue- literally. Tsfat is one of the 4 holy cities ( Jerusalem, Tiberias, Tsfat and Hebron – I’ve successfully been to all of them!!) Kabbalah, Jewish mysticism, was founded in Tsfat, and its mystical color blue is on every door, wall, and even in the cracks of the street. The famous Yosef Caro wrote the Shulchan Oruch in Tsfat too. As you can tell, Tsfat is a pretty special place.
When Shabbat began, with the sounding of a siren of course, we ventured to a shul we had heard great things about. On our way we passed dozens of other minyanim beginning their respective Kabbalat Shabbat services. We stood cramped in a jammed packed women’s section- filled with amazing ruach and kavanah!! After shul we were split up to go to three different homes for Shabbat Dinner. Two girls went to a Tsfat artist and his family- David Freidman. Two girls went to a more spiritual family who had established “the quiet center” in Tsfat and my friend Helene and I were hosted by the Chazan at the shul we went too! We ate with this incredible family- American born, 8 kids, nice guests, delicious food! After dinner we all made our way back to our humble abode and discussed our respective, interesting experiences. Saturday morning we were split up three and three. One group was sent to the same artist from Friday night and the others were sent to an incredible family called the Ben Baruchs. The Ben Baruchs’ have about 10 children, 6 of which are there biological children , 4 of which are adopted, and 5 of which have Down syndrome. They welcomed us with such open arms- telling stories about their children, and their lives. I learned that Down syndrome and other disabilities are not so accepted in the Orthodox world, leading to abandonment and often institutionalization. This family, with little money, finds these children and does whatever they can for them including taking them as their own.
After my Shabbat in Tsfat I’ve concluded that Tsfat is a sort of escape for many people. Quiet, quaint, small and filled with super interesting people, tons of spirit and mysticism, Tsfat was a great place to spend Shabbat.
Lag B’omer, the middle of the 7 week counting of the Omer between Pesach and Shavuat, was special in Jerusalem. Friends and I took a bus into town through the religious neighborhood of Mea Shaarim to see dozens of bonfires burning in the streets- something traditionally done on Lag B’omer. When our bus was stopped because of pretty regular suspicious bag being blown up, we got off the bus and walked the rest of the way to the Kotel. We passed tons of bonfires in the streets – not so environmentally friendly- and finally made it to the Kotel where yet again a Bonfire was burning. After that we made it to Gan Sacher (where we celebrated Yom Haaztmaut, and other festive holidays) and yet AGAIN hung around the fire- this time roasting marshmallows!
When we were told of the Pope’s visit to Jerusalem it seemed exciting. Five days later, the Pope became the source of TONS of traffic, school closings, bus re-routing and more. It was amazing to see what Jerusalem had done in preparation for the visit of the Catholic leader. Vatican flags were put up EVERYWHERE, new flowers were planted, fresh paint was added to the streets and more. Right across from my apartment building just so happen to be the landing pad for the Pope! We were on lockdown when he arrived- no one could leave and no one could come. It was incredible to see the respect and reverence Israel’s government gave to the Pope upon his visit. He went to Yad Vashem, the Kotel and other revered sites here and gave a handful of speeches. The Popes visit was special considering the small significance he holds within the Jewish state aside from the Christian presence. The fact that Israel welcomed him with such open arms gives a peak into their respect for guests and more specifically someone who is adamant on bringing peace to this region and the world.
Yesterday, I successfully visited all four of the holy cities in Israel. With 7 other students and a veteran Israeli soldier I visited the city of Hebron- the settlement/ occupied territory. We were an assorted group – some super liberal others way to the right, one was Christian who is joining the American army and one who had studied at a University in Ramallah this past semester. We were a taken around the old city of Hebron with an organization called “Breaking the Silence.” (“Breaking the Silence is an organization of veteran Israeli soldiers that collects testimonies of soldiers who served in the Occupied Territories during the Second Intifada.”)This organization was created to basically provide transparencies of the Military. We were taken through Hebron and shown was has occurred as a result of the occupation of the Hebron. We learned that there are specific streets that only Palestinians can walk on, that only Israelis can walk on- places where Palestinians used to live and trade but have been closed, empty homes and streets, a few settlers and a few Palestinians. We learned about the military presence in the area, the long and intense process it is for Palestinians to leave and to come. We learned that the PA supports Palestinians in Hebron, despite awful conditions in order to keep a Palestinian presence in the area. Our guide enlightened us on some of his own experiences during the second intifada, through checkpoints, night raids and the like. This experience was incredibly…confusing. It became very hard to separate what I knew as fact and what I knew of my opinion on the political situation in Israel from what I was seeing in front of me. Regardless of political motive, right or wrong, effective or ineffective, the state of the Palestinians in this area is far from that of their Jewish neighbors. I left feeling very unsettled as the program does not offer a solution and no political agenda (though that is debatable). More strengthened however my understanding of the complication of the situation in Israel. We can’t compare our situation to any other though we are held to a higher standard, and every move we make has its consequences. As a result of this trip my idea of a solution to the political – rooted deeply in a belief of a religious and national right- has become even more blurred.
On a more positive note- I was able to visit the graves of the Avot and Imahot. The tombs are divided in half (half mosque half synagogue) where only Christians can go to both sides. It was incredible to be at the grave sites of our forefathers.
I have two more weeks left in Israel- student day, Shabbat, Shavuot, tests, papers and packing and undoubtedly spur of the moment adventures all lie ahead of me.
I am torn between being excited to go home- see family and friends, and spend my summer at camp, and leaving this place I have grown so attached to.
More to come later!
With Love,
Sara
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Am Yisrael Chai
Days of remembrance and celebration in Israel do not go unnoticed. In that past two weeks, Israel has undoubtedly been on a “yom” kick, celebrating Yom HaShoah, Yom Hazikaron and Yom Haatzmaut over the course of 8 days. These holidays shed an interesting and touching light on Israeli culture- its connection and recognition of its past tied ever so closely with its hope of the future.
As the day of remembrance of the 6 million Jews who were murdered through the horrors of the Holocaust, Yom Hashoah, strikes a very personal and relatable cord in Israeli society. Stores closed throughout Yerushalayim on erev Yom Hashoah and a siren goes off at 10 o clock the next morning signaling a moment of silence for those 6 million Jews who perished. The siren is something so very specific to Eretz Yisrael. A siren rings to warn against bombing raids and a siren rings to signal the remembrance of those who perished. Each siren however sounds different- a bomb warning is high pitched and goes through different tones while the siren to remember is low pitched, slow and somber.
The connection the Holocaust has to Israel is quite obviously a close one. I recall making assumptions at a young age that Israel’s creation was highly dependent on the Holocaust. While there is no doubt that the final push in establishing a Jewish state for the Jewish people was connected to the horrors of the Holocaust, I have learned over the years it is of course not the only reason for its establishment. The Zionist movement came about in the late 19th century as the only answer to the ensuing anti-Semitism of Europe. The connection today on Yom Hashoah of course is that so many of the Holocausts survivors found their way to Israel- many fought it is War of Independence, ran its government and continued to develop the nation that we see today. Aside from these survivors of course are their decedents who populate this country today. Yom HaShoah was created in the 1950s- shortly after its independence, on the day of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising- purposely in memory of those warriors in Warsaw as the state was being created and fought for by the new warriors, of Israel.
A mere week later- a professor of mine pointed out the connection between this week and the week of Shiva- Yom Hazikaron occurs. This day is set to remember all those soldiers who have died from pre-state to now. I found myself on erev Yom Hazikaron at the Kotel for the national ceremony of those fallen soldiers. Crowded behind an area blocked off for soldiers, we stood and listened in Hebrew to President Shimon Peres, a rabbi and military leaders speak on the day of remembrance. Following this ceremony two of my friends and I made our way over the Russian compound downtown where we were three of thousands of Israel’s sitting in the courtyard of the old Jail- listening to musicians perform songs about war and soldiers and short videos of soliders in the Army. We became a part of this day of remembrance as we sat surrounded by thousands of Israelis who most likely served in the Army in last 5 years and even more likely lost friends of theirs. Tears uncontrollably fell from my eyes as the hatikvah- the hope- was sung by those who fight truly to protect the state of Israel and the Jewish people. Around town the next day were hundreds of ceremonies remembering those who have fallen- along with a national ceremony on top of Har Herzl. Throughout the day the Radio broadcasts the stories of fallen soldiers. My friend Helene and I made our way into town just in time to hear the siren of remembrance for those fallen soldiers. Everyone gets out of their cars, traffic is stopped and we stand silently in honor and remembrance of Israel’s fallen. It is unlike any memorial day in the US, to be in Israel for Yom Hazikaron. This day is personal here, meant for honoring and remembering soldiers who died fighting for the state of Israel, unlike the shopping barbequing Memorial Day in the states. Undoubtedly everyone has a connection to a grave at the bottom of Har Herzl among the rows of stone plaques honoring those who have lost their lives.
Merely hours later the celebration of the founding of the State of Israel began. As the sun set my friends and I attempted to make our way to Talpiyot for Mincha Maariv and Hallel on the Tayelet overlooking the old city. We got lost on the way, found ourselves heading down a not- so safe mountain to a place we as American- Jewish 20 somethings were probably not welcomed. Luckily a car drove by hailing an Israeli flag, rolled down its window and a friendly Israeli face asked us where we were going. We quickly piled into his old Volvo after discovering he too was heading to the tekas and was lost on the way. He told us some stories about Shlomo Carlebach, as any good hippie religious Jew here does, and we safely made our way to the tekas. We arrived to davening Israelis followed by dancing in celebration of the young country which would turn 61 the following day. We then made our way down town to Israeli dancing at city hall- along with some intense Israeli dancers, to some concerts in the center of town where everyone was clad in blue in white and finally made our way to Nachloat to a block party that lasted until early in the morning. The next day was all about the Barbequing. What seemed like every citizen of Jerusalem crowded into Gan Sacher and held huge bbq’s for friends and family. My friends and I grilled chicken cabobs and burgers and spent the day celebrating the creation of the state of Israel with its people.
These three holidays- holidays celebrating the civil religion of Israel rather than the religious- revealed a side of Israeli society to me that continues to amaze me. We hear in the states about our freedoms and standing united, but nothing can compare to the celebration of independence and freedom that Israel inhibits on these three days. These holidays emphasized for me the uniqueness of the state of Israel. As I continue my journey here its days like these that pull me into what it really means to be an a Jew in your own land- and its days like these that deepen my sense of pride in my people and my land.
In exactly one month I will be traveling back to the states. It has begun to hit me that my dreams of spending a semester abroad are slowly coming to a close. I have so many things I want and need to get done before I can end my time here- and I plan to succeed. Though that reality is starting to sink in along with sadness as well- my confidence is returning here continues to grow.
Love to you all,
Sara
As the day of remembrance of the 6 million Jews who were murdered through the horrors of the Holocaust, Yom Hashoah, strikes a very personal and relatable cord in Israeli society. Stores closed throughout Yerushalayim on erev Yom Hashoah and a siren goes off at 10 o clock the next morning signaling a moment of silence for those 6 million Jews who perished. The siren is something so very specific to Eretz Yisrael. A siren rings to warn against bombing raids and a siren rings to signal the remembrance of those who perished. Each siren however sounds different- a bomb warning is high pitched and goes through different tones while the siren to remember is low pitched, slow and somber.
The connection the Holocaust has to Israel is quite obviously a close one. I recall making assumptions at a young age that Israel’s creation was highly dependent on the Holocaust. While there is no doubt that the final push in establishing a Jewish state for the Jewish people was connected to the horrors of the Holocaust, I have learned over the years it is of course not the only reason for its establishment. The Zionist movement came about in the late 19th century as the only answer to the ensuing anti-Semitism of Europe. The connection today on Yom Hashoah of course is that so many of the Holocausts survivors found their way to Israel- many fought it is War of Independence, ran its government and continued to develop the nation that we see today. Aside from these survivors of course are their decedents who populate this country today. Yom HaShoah was created in the 1950s- shortly after its independence, on the day of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising- purposely in memory of those warriors in Warsaw as the state was being created and fought for by the new warriors, of Israel.
A mere week later- a professor of mine pointed out the connection between this week and the week of Shiva- Yom Hazikaron occurs. This day is set to remember all those soldiers who have died from pre-state to now. I found myself on erev Yom Hazikaron at the Kotel for the national ceremony of those fallen soldiers. Crowded behind an area blocked off for soldiers, we stood and listened in Hebrew to President Shimon Peres, a rabbi and military leaders speak on the day of remembrance. Following this ceremony two of my friends and I made our way over the Russian compound downtown where we were three of thousands of Israel’s sitting in the courtyard of the old Jail- listening to musicians perform songs about war and soldiers and short videos of soliders in the Army. We became a part of this day of remembrance as we sat surrounded by thousands of Israelis who most likely served in the Army in last 5 years and even more likely lost friends of theirs. Tears uncontrollably fell from my eyes as the hatikvah- the hope- was sung by those who fight truly to protect the state of Israel and the Jewish people. Around town the next day were hundreds of ceremonies remembering those who have fallen- along with a national ceremony on top of Har Herzl. Throughout the day the Radio broadcasts the stories of fallen soldiers. My friend Helene and I made our way into town just in time to hear the siren of remembrance for those fallen soldiers. Everyone gets out of their cars, traffic is stopped and we stand silently in honor and remembrance of Israel’s fallen. It is unlike any memorial day in the US, to be in Israel for Yom Hazikaron. This day is personal here, meant for honoring and remembering soldiers who died fighting for the state of Israel, unlike the shopping barbequing Memorial Day in the states. Undoubtedly everyone has a connection to a grave at the bottom of Har Herzl among the rows of stone plaques honoring those who have lost their lives.
Merely hours later the celebration of the founding of the State of Israel began. As the sun set my friends and I attempted to make our way to Talpiyot for Mincha Maariv and Hallel on the Tayelet overlooking the old city. We got lost on the way, found ourselves heading down a not- so safe mountain to a place we as American- Jewish 20 somethings were probably not welcomed. Luckily a car drove by hailing an Israeli flag, rolled down its window and a friendly Israeli face asked us where we were going. We quickly piled into his old Volvo after discovering he too was heading to the tekas and was lost on the way. He told us some stories about Shlomo Carlebach, as any good hippie religious Jew here does, and we safely made our way to the tekas. We arrived to davening Israelis followed by dancing in celebration of the young country which would turn 61 the following day. We then made our way down town to Israeli dancing at city hall- along with some intense Israeli dancers, to some concerts in the center of town where everyone was clad in blue in white and finally made our way to Nachloat to a block party that lasted until early in the morning. The next day was all about the Barbequing. What seemed like every citizen of Jerusalem crowded into Gan Sacher and held huge bbq’s for friends and family. My friends and I grilled chicken cabobs and burgers and spent the day celebrating the creation of the state of Israel with its people.
These three holidays- holidays celebrating the civil religion of Israel rather than the religious- revealed a side of Israeli society to me that continues to amaze me. We hear in the states about our freedoms and standing united, but nothing can compare to the celebration of independence and freedom that Israel inhibits on these three days. These holidays emphasized for me the uniqueness of the state of Israel. As I continue my journey here its days like these that pull me into what it really means to be an a Jew in your own land- and its days like these that deepen my sense of pride in my people and my land.
In exactly one month I will be traveling back to the states. It has begun to hit me that my dreams of spending a semester abroad are slowly coming to a close. I have so many things I want and need to get done before I can end my time here- and I plan to succeed. Though that reality is starting to sink in along with sadness as well- my confidence is returning here continues to grow.
Love to you all,
Sara
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
